The angle can be very steep especially just above the base or the bergschrund and again near the top most camps. This area is heavily crevassed and smart teams rope up or always stay clipped into the fixed rope. Also see the South Col route map. Sitting between Everest and Lhotse at 26,300 feet, it serves as the base for the summit attempt. On good snow years, there is usually a well-worn path developed on the route. Climbers step over the crevasses on aluminum ladders with crampons on their boots. In 2019 there were 878 summits, 216 from Tibet and 662 from Nepal and 3 didn't use supplemental oxygen. Everest at 5:00AM on May 21, 2011 with Kami Sherpa of International Mountain Guides (IMG). They took the South Col route which is described on this page. Everest is on the North (left), Lhotse is directly ahead and Nuptse is on the right or South. The fixed line becomes a bit cumbersome and requires careful manipulation of their carabineer and jumar in heavy gloves at each anchor. It is about 1.74 miles from Camp 1 to Camp 2 with an altitude gain of 1,500'. The sun is reflected by the snow and ice covered walls of the valley and lightly filtered at this 22,000 foot altitude. All the pictures are from my Everest climbs. Breathing is heavy and labored the first couple of trips. Most climbers will take 9 to 18 hours for the round trip climb from the South Col. My total time was 11 hours as follows: That's about it. On the other side was the route from the north side, Tibet. They had loads that made climbers feel like a wimp. Maps of Everest Routes and Deaths. I did not find it difficult or frightening since I crossed it in the dark and didn't remember it on the descent. Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world use this route to try to stand on top of the world. ... 1988 - An international team climbs the Neverest Buttress to the South Col. Brit Stephen Venables follows the SE Ridge route to the summit without using oxygen. Climbers still cannot actually see Everest until they go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, they do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills behind them. Click to enlarge it and you can easily see climbers along the slabs. It can be cold if the wind is blowing so most people throw on a down parka during the break. 122 died not using Os. From all the traffic, there are steps but also the uneven rock allows for good foot placement. The South Summit is the first time climbers can clearly see the final route to the true summit and probably the first time climbers think they will actually summit. The Tibet side has seen 3,603 summits with 110 deaths through December 2019 or 3%, a rate of 1.08. Hi i'm Morris Bria, an Italian Amateur Mountainer. The activity was fast paced. The picture on the right was taken by teammate Simon Arnsby as he summited Lhotse the same morning I summited Everest, May 21, 2011. 304 people (185 westerners and 119 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1924 to August 2020, about 3.5%. The climb from the South Col is some of the steepest, sustained climbing on a South Col route climb until you reach the slabs discussed next. Next is a knife-edge ridge, the Cornice-Traverse leads to the Hillary Step. All content is protected by copyright laws. At the top of the Hillary Step a large boulder aka chockstone sitting on a ledge, blocked the route. Annapurna is the most deadly 8000er with one death for about every four summits (72:298) or a 3.84 death rate. Everest from the South Col Save The route follows the shallow gully up and then right to the level spot on the Ridge (The Balcony). I had expected a long snow slope with the summit visible from just above the Hillary Step but there were more small hills, really bumps that blocked the view and continued to demand a physical effort on top of the altitude requirements. The fixed ropes are a huge asset here. The Himalayan Database reports that through August 2020 there have been 10,271 summits (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. They dress in layers but not too many because it can be warm: long underwear, shell pants and light top, a shell jacket and a warm jacket in the pack for breaks. Everest. There are usually two ropes, an up and a down, attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. It only took about 20 minutes to go from the Step to the first view of the summit, prayer flags marking the top of the world. Mt. By now you know two routes dominate Everest. This is a map of all of the routes that have been taken to summit of Everest. "one of the world's most respected chronicler of Everest" - Outside Magazine: Everest Northeast Ridge aka North Col Route ... (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. Topping the ridge, climbers follow a rocky "path" worn by other climbers and soon step on the South Col proper - an area the size of two football fields with ten or twenty or thirty tents huddled together on the west end.
It is considered slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. I arm wrapped the steep sections. The true summit is not visible from this angle. Climbers have to kick their crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step. It usually takes four to six hours to cover the 1.62 miles and climbers get faster as their acclimatization increases. This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying loads to the higher camps. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. This extraordinary amount can be greatly contributed to the geology of this specific route as well as other features such as rock fall, exposure, avalanches and icefall. This page details the South Col route from Nepal. More of the same for another two or three hours. Climbers climb the Lhotse face twice during the attempt on the summit. The summit bid starts before midnight with a steep climb up the South side of Everest. Basically climbers climb the crack. From Camp 3, on the way to the summit, climbers must cross the yellow band and the Geneva Spur on the way to the South Col. When climbers attempt to climb Everest from the southeast ridge in Nepal, their final camp (usually Camp IV) is situated on the South Col. The lite cloud (plume) is normal and shows some winds but still marginally climbable. Mt Everest South Col Route Maps. aka South Col
Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. Please note that all content on this site is a result of significant time and money and as such all images, videos, dispatches, essays and stories are original work and property of Alan Arnette unless otherwise noted. In 2011, there were three "Camp 3's" ranging from 23,500 to 24,000'. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. Each climber was with their Personal Sherpa. The lines took some time to spread out. Everest South Col Route Maps Alan Arnette is a climber coach, mountaineer, professional speaker, and Alzheimer's advocate. It is about 1.07 miles from the South Col to the summit and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. First it is hot. The walk to C1 has a gradual gain but climbers will still be breathing hard. Respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness. 109 died on the descending from summit bid or 35% of the total deaths. From 1923 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with 1,169 summits or 14.5%. However once in their tent, the views are amazing on a clear day! At the top of the Icefall, the terrain becomes a flat expanse of snow that leads into the Western Cwm. Everest is the tallest mountain in the world. Good leather gloves, sunglasses, headlamp and warm cap top things off. Everest is actually getting safer even though more people are now climbing. But most climber notice the tents second - after they see the actual summit pyramid of Mount Everest for the first time. Most climbers will begin using supplemental oxygen here and have a maximum of only two or three days for making summit bids. I have now been through the Icefall about 40 times. South Summit on the right. The expansive western flank of Lhotse is called the Lhotse Face and is an unavoidable part of the traditional southeast route up Everest. The sun reflects off the walls of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse's snow covered slopes making the temperature rise above 100F degrees. The Nepal side is more popular with 6,554 summits compared to 3,632 summits from the Tibet side. Himalaya - Nepal
This is where almost every climber swaps oxygen bottles for a fresh one and also time for a food and water break. click to enlarge map
This video was taken by Panaru Sherpa who climbed with Karim Mella, the first Dominican to summit Everest. I found it challenging but not nearly as hard as advertised! I attempted Lhotse twice - 2015 and 2016. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). Climbers rarely get a second chance to return to the South Col in a specific expedition. Summit route as seen from Camp 4, the South Col. I watched my Personal Sherpa, Kami, climb it and followed his lead There were new and old fixed ropes but not the spider web I had heard about from old ropes. South Summit on the right. Everest Base Camp is on the lower left with the initial route up the ice fall as seen from Kala Patar. The summit is the highest point in this picture. It was obviously dark at 9:20 PM when we set out. Nepal was closed to foreigners until 1950. Climbers can only see a small portion of the Khumbu Ice Fall from this angle. This can be exhausting. If your the camp is at the top of the gully, it can be a very long final half hour. There have been several other famous routes on Everest South Col, including the Bonington Route which was first climbed by Chris Bonington in 1975. The South Col ... Map | Everest Home. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. It looms 29,035′ (8,848 meters) above sea level and sits directly on the border of Tibet and Nepal. However, this changes when climbers hit the slabs, a long section of smooth to jumbled rock, perhaps 200' in total. According to John Hunt, the expedition leader: It was 2.40 p.m. Wilfrid Noyce and his companion Annullu stood at that moment above the South Col of Everest, at about 26,000 feet [7,900 m]. ... on Everest. . Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. Climbers are a little weary at this point more from the altitude than anything else so when they see Geneva Spur's 150' of 40 degree rock, ice and snow, it causes a long pause. In 2014 an ice serac released off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall killing 16 Sherpas - the worst single incident tragedy in the history of Everest on either side. Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. Climbing Mt. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way
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At some points climbers simply stood in place waiting for the person ahead of climbers to move, not wanting -or able -to pass them. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). The slabs vary in difficulty from annoying to very steep and hard. K2 ( 8611m, 28,250ft) in the Karakoram Region of Pakistan - the highest mountain in Pakistan and the second highest mountain in the world. Climbers start before sunrise to minimize the movement of the glacier heating up with sunrise and mid-day heat. These barriers, while not technically difficult, are a challenge at an altitude of 25,000 feet and 6 weeks of expedition life.
Sherpas returning from the previous day, or even that same morning, of load carrying to the High Camps occupy the route. The Nepal side has 194 deaths or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23. The next stage is the Lhotse Face, Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world at 27,920 feet. The climb from the Balcony to the South Summit was longer than I anticipated and significantly more difficult than I had envisioned. Climbers leave the Balcony on a somewhat gentle grade but it quickly increases to 30 degrees but still on a snow packed boot path in high traffic years.  The weather stations are about 7 feet (2.1 m) tall and weigh 110 pounds (50 kg).