Clip as much as you need to so the neckline can lay flat against the collar stand. First, make sure you are going to have a suitable spot to cut the stays from by placing one up against it. I’ll improve for future shirt projects. Ideally, the upper collar should have a little access fabric, creating a little “bubble” between the under collar. You can of course mark the seam line if you want more guidance. Press to the WS. Start in the middle, and stretch the collar stand by about 1/8″ (3mm) as you sew towards the end. Dale Davidson/Demand Media . The other seam allowances shouldn’t be longer than 1 cm. 4.5 out of 5 stars 37. (This fabric looks nearly the same on both sides in photos.). The collar stand pattern pieces have a little mark at the center front. Stitch together at 5/8″. To draft the pattern, start by measuring the neckline on the pattern. Iron up a fold about 1.5cm deep along the longer edge of each collar stand piece. On the wrong side of the garment, the pin should stick the fabric in place like so: If you are finished with pinning, it’s time to sew everything in place. There are two basic stand collar styles: the plain stand collar or mandarin, and a rolled or turned-down stand collar. I always start at the center back, making sure all three layers (collar stand – finished collar – collar stand) align. Because the seam allowances need to be trimmed, I like to sew this seam twice to secure the fabric from fraying. It’s fun to try something new. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. You want to join the Sugaridoo-Quilt-Along? Pin the collar between the two collar pieces. Trim very close to your stitching, about 1/8″ (3mm) away. Use a thin but blunt object to turn the collar points, like a bone folder or big knitting needle. By your continued use of this site you accept such use. Sew along that drawn-in stitching line, stopping at the point you marked with a pin. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. I love precision sewing. Among the blog readers who show their finished quilt top on Instagram or in our community, we’re giving away a BERNINA 570 QE! I was supposed to cut two identical ones. By now you’ve made your collar, and have set it aside for attaching later: And your shirt needs to be constructed to the point where you can attach the collar stand: yoke sewn to front and back, front bands sewn to the centre front. A straight collar is the most used formal type of collar. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. This means you have to spread the excess amount of fabric of the upper collar evenly. Lie your work down, right side up, and start to stitch directly in the seam that attaches stand and neck. I’ll try that for future projects. 4.4 out of 5 stars 293. Change a Shirt Collar Into a Mandarin Collar With NO Sewing: Living in a hot climate, I love wearing light weight shirts and blouses, but I hate the collars on them. As you can see in the picture below, the clippings in the one layer are offset from the other layer. Finger press the seam down near the edge of the shirt on either side. I can revoke my consent to the promotional use of my data at any time and at no cost.*. I always start at the center back, making sure all three layers (collar stand – finished collar – collar stand) align. Instead we make the collar, then attach the stand to the shirt, then insert the collar into the stand. Looks pretty good eh? Portrait collar . More shirtmaking information today. On the wrong side, the seam sits near the edge where we folded our fabric, but still catching it and securing everything. Then top-stitch around collar stand 3 mm from the edge, making sure that lower folded edge of the collar stand is caught in the seam. The Shirtmaking book I’m referencing has a completely different approach to sewing the collar stand than usual methods. Then I poked a pin into the collar stand where the collar stand ends. Darn! This is the lower edge of your collar stand. Now, I fold the edge of the stand over so the raw edge points into the stand. This little rounded area, from pin to where we stopped our stitching at the edge of the front band, is the last part we’ll sew. :), This is so cool, seeing it all in a pretty print:) Btw, over the years I’ve stopped bothering with stretching the second stand piece when joining it in; haven’t noticed any problems…. The rest of the inner collar stand has to be sewn from the outside. Pin the collar to the shirt’s neckline. This post is kind of long already, so I’ll write about sewing the collar into the stand in a separate post. Great! This is much easier to do on the white, interfaced side. So if it’s your first collar, you can practice by leaving away some of the refinements first. 4.3 out of 5 stars 30. This way, the under collar isn’t visible at all and even the seam disappears. HEFASDM Men's Basic Style African Dashiki Stand Up Collar Shirts. The first layer of the collar stand is now secure, let’s go on with the counterpart that still needs our attention. Ok! I didn’t take good photos through this part so I referred back to the book to write this post, and sure enough you are to stretch the uninterfaced collar stand when you sew it to the neckline, just like we did for the collar itself. Copyright © 2008-2020 BERNINA International AG | System powered by Inpsyde. If everything looks good so far, you can trim away the seam allowance in this area, again using a shallow angle. Draw in the seamline using the template as a guide. Doesn’t it look nice? Most sewing patterns have only one piece for the collar itself. It looks like you might have a perfect way to sew this band on and have sharp corners. This next part is where you need the completed collar. Good steps but I agree with Barbara that it’s hard to see what’s what with the print. First, glue-baste interfacing to one of your collar stand pieces. (Good to know if you are using contrast fabrics for your shirt!). Hundreds of thousands of … Step 7 Now turn the collar-stand inside out again, place it upside down, and pull the shirt through the collar opening of the stand. $15.00 shipping. Women and upturned blouse collars [ Write a post] This is a place for people who adore to see women wearing blouses or shirts with the collar turned up. I use iron-on interfacing on one piece of each. Collar Method 1 - Add Up Neckline Length & Draw. It’s on my list to demonstrate soon! High Quality Polyester Stand-up Collar T-shirt, T-Shirt for Ladies, Women T-Shirt, Cool Shirt for Women DYFCrafts. The underside rolls out too much on the right side of the collar stand. Register now for free and become part of the BERNINA community. Click here to sign in. Use gently pressure to iron the collar, working from the middle of the collar out to the ends. BERNINA I really like the stretching technique for the top collar, it’s made it curve so nicely. The collar itself is finished now. collar, collar stand, collar stand template, granville shirt, shirtmaking, shirts, Interesting… It is different from how I’m used to sew the collar and colla stand. Hi Tasia, Thanks for the remainder of the instructions for the shirt collar. Sure, it’s … You can pull the layers apart a little bit to see the “ditch” clearer. We’ll sew the stand to the shirt body, and then attach the collar to the stand. Put the collar away again. That’s the exact middle of the garment where the button placket and by extension the collar stand will overlap. This seam isn’t visible anymore, and the folded edge needs to overlap it enough so I can catch the fabric with my seam. if you want to publish pictures via the comment function, please log in to the blog first. I do wonder if I should press in between somewhere or perhaps grade the seam before folding the standing parts upwards.